In the 1661 book Eighteen books of the secrets of art & nature, various methods of coloring hair black, gold, green, red, yellow, and white are explained.^[1]

Hair Dye, or Hair Color, is a chemical tool that is used to change the color of a person's hair. Hair dye is used mostly to change gray hair, since gray hair is a sign of an advanced age. Younger people that used hair dye use it as a fashion statement or simply because they want to change their hair color. The Romans have been known to be interested in changing hair color and history revealed that they created over a hundred recipes that are made out of natural ingredients but unfortunately it could only darken hair. In Renaissance time, blonde was a popular choice because it was considered to be angelic and attractive; just put on the ingredients in hair then sit in the sun and it'll create a highlighted effect, and eventually, turn blonde. In 1907, Eugene Schueller, the founder of L'Oreal, created the first synthetic hair dye, but it wasn't widely sold. There have been concern about hair dye since scientist are trying to find out if there is a link between hair color and cancer.

Types of hair color

The four most common classifications are 'temporary', 'semi-permanent', 'demi-permanent' (sometimes called 'deposit only') and "permanent".

Temporary hair color

Temporary hair color is available as rinses, shampoos, gels, sprays, and foams among others. This type of hair color is typically brighter and more vibrant than semi-permanent and permanent hair color. Temporary color is most often used to color hair for special occasions and is often used in unusual shades for events, parties, cosplays, and Halloween Halloween is an annual holiday observed on October 31. It has roots in the Celtic festival of Samhain and the Christian holiday All Saints' Day, but is today largely a secular celebration.

The pigment molecules in temporary hair color are large and cannot penetrate the cuticle layer. Instead, the color particles remain adsorbed (closely adherent) to the hair shaft and are easily removed with a single shampooing.

However, even temporary hair color can persist if the user's hair is excessively dry or damaged, allowing for migration of the pigments to the interior of the hair shaft.

Semi-permanent hair color

Semi-permanent hair dye has smaller molecules than temporary dyes, and is therefore able to partially penetrate the hair shaft. For this reason, the color will survive repeated washing, typically 4-5 shampoos. Semi-permanents contain no, or very low levels of developer, peroxide or ammonia, and are therefore safer for damaged or fragile hair. However, semi-permanents may still contain the toxic compound P-Phenylenediamine p-Phenylenediamine is an organic compound with the formula C6H4(NH2)2. This derivative of aniline, aromatic amine, is a colourless solid when pure but typically samples are partially oxidized and appear yellowish. It mainly used as a component of engineering polymers and composites. Its use is controversial because of it high toxicity. may cause or other such ingredients.

The final color of each strand of hair will depend on its original color and porosity, so there will be subtle variations in shade across the whole head. This gives a more natural result than the solid, allover color of a permanent dye. However, it also means that gray or white hairs will not dye to the same shade as the rest of the hair. If there are only a few gray/white hairs, the effect will usually be enough for them to blend in, but as the gray spreads, there will come a point where it will not be disguised as well..

In this case, the move to permanent color can sometimes be delayed by using the semi-permanent as a base and adding highlights.

Semi-permanent color cannot lighten the hair.

Demi-Permanent hair color

Demi-permanent hair color is, in fact, permanent hair color that contains an alkaline agent other than ammonia (e.g., ethanolamine, sodium carbonate) and, while always employed with a developer, the concentration of hydrogen peroxide in that developer may be lower than used with a permanent hair color. Since the alkaline agents employed in dem-perms are less effective in removing the natural pigment of hair than ammonia these product provide little to no lightening of hair's color during dyeing. As the result, they cannot color hair to a lighter shade than it was before dyeing and are less damaging to hair than their permanent counterpart.

Demi-permanents are much more effective at covering gray hair than semi-permanents, but less so than permanents.

Demi-permanents have several advantages as compared with permanent color. Because there is essentially no lifting (i.e., removal) of natural hair color, the final color is less uniform/homogeneous than a permanent and therefore more natural looking; they are gentler on hair and therefore safer, especially for damaged hair; and they wash out over time (typically 20 to 28 shampoos), so root regrowth is less noticeable and if a change of color is desired, it is easier to achieve. Demi-permanent hair colors are, in essence, permanent color and the darker shades in particular may persist longer than indicated on the packet.

Permanent color

All "permanent" haircolor products and lighteners contain a developer, or oxidizing agent, and an alkalizing agent ammonia Ammonia is a compound of nitrogen and hydrogen with the formula NH3. It is a colourless gas with a characteristic pungent odour. Ammonia contributes significantly to the nutritional needs of terrestrial organisms by serving as a precursor to food and fertilizers. Ammonia, either directly or indirectly, is also a building block for the synthesis of.

When the tint containing the alkalizing ingredient is combined with the developer cause a chemical reaction that swells the hair permitting the tint to enter the cortex, where the melanin Melanin (Greek μέλας, black; pronounced /ˈmɛlənɪn/ ) is a class of compounds found in plants, animals, and protists, where it serves predominantly as a pigment. In animals melanin pigments are derivatives of the amino acid tyrosine. The most common form of biological melanin is eumelanin, a brown-black polymer of dihydroxyindole is located. The melanin is lightened and over taken by the new color.

The ammonia swells the cuticle of the hair to allow the color pigments to penetrate deep into the hair shaft.

Permanent color is truly permanent and will not wash out, although it may fade. New hair regrowth will obviously be in the hair's natural color, meaning that regular monthly or six-weekly coloring will be essential for as long as the hair color is maintained.

Permanent haircolor is the only way to dye dark hair into a lighter shade, and it must be done in two parts: First, the hair is lightened, then color is applied.

Ways to get rid of permanent hair color include bleaching (if you don't mind damage or yellow/orange hair), stripping with a color remover (which will return hair to its normal color if hair has only been dyed with a permanent color once), or just cutting off the permanently dyed hair.

Hair lighteners and bleaches

"Hair lightening," referred to as "bleaching" or "decolorizing," is a chemical process involving the diffusion of the natural color pigment or artificial color from the hair Hair is a filamentous biomaterial, that grows from follicles found in the dermis. The human body, apart from the palms of the hands and soles of the feet, is covered in follicles which produce thick terminal and fine vellus hair. Most common interest in hair is focused on hair growth, hair types and hair care but hair is also an important plus the raising of the cuticle making the hair more porous.

Application techniques

Hair color was traditionally applied to the hair as one overall color. The modern trend is to use several colors to produce streaks or gradations, either on top of the natural color or on top of a single base color. These are referred to as:

• Highlighting, where sections of hair are treated with lighteners, usually to create blond streaks.
• Lowlighting, where sections of hair are treated with darker hair color.

These can be applied by the following methods:

• Foils, where pieces of foil or plastic film are used to separate off the hair to be colored; especially when applying more than one color.
• Cap, when a plastic cap is placed tight on the head and strands are pulled through with a hook.
• Balayage, where hair color is painted directly onto sections of the hair with no foils used to keep the color contained.

All application techniques can be used with any type of color. For highlights, the hair will usually have to be bleached before coloring.

Exotic hair colorants

A minority of hair coloring products are designed to create hair colors not typically found in nature. These are available in almost any color imaginable, including green or fuchsia.

These dyes are typically sold in punk The punk subculture includes a diverse array of ideologies, and forms of expression, including fashion, visual art, dance, literature, and film, which grew out of punk rock-themed stores (such as comic book A comic book is a magazine made up of narrative artwork in the form of separate "panels" that represent individual scenes, often accompanied by dialog (usually in word balloons, emblematic of the comic book art form) as well as including brief descriptive prose. The first comic book appeared in the United States of America in 1934, and music Music is an art form whose medium is sound. Common elements of music are pitch , rhythm (and its associated concepts tempo, meter, and articulation), dynamics, and the sonic qualities of timbre and texture. The word derives from Greek μουσική (mousike), "(art) of the Muses." stores), with brand names like "Beyond The Zone", "Splat", "Clairol Jazzing", "Manic Panic", "Special Effects", "Punky Colour". A permanent alternative in some colors (such as bold infra-red and dark, inky purples and blues) is available in the U.S. under "Paul Mitchell: Inkworks" and "Chi: InfaReds". Some exotic color shades are blacklight reactive, to show up under nightclub lighting.

The chemical formulae of exotic colored dyes typically contain only tint, and have no developer. This means that they will only create the bright color of the packet if they are applied to light blond hair. People with darker hair (medium brown to black) will need to use a bleaching kit prior to tint application. Some people with fair hair may benefit from prior bleaching as well. Gold, yellow and orange undertones in hair that hasn't been lightened enough can adversely affect results, especially with pinks, blues, and greens.

Adverse effects of hair coloring

Hair coloring involves the use of chemicals capable of removing, replacing and/or covering up pigments naturally found inside the hair shaft. Use of these chemicals can result in a range of adverse effects, including temporary skin irritation and allergy, hair breakage, skin discoloration and unexpected hair color results.

Additionally, there is ongoing debate regarding more serious health consequences of hair color usage, including lead poisoning.

Skin irritation and allergy

In certain individuals, the use of hair coloring can result in allergic reaction and/or skin irritation.

Symptoms of these reactions can include redness, sores, itching, burning sensation and discomfort. If any of these symptoms occur, alert your hair colorist immediately so that they can remove the color. Symptoms will not always be present right at the application and processing of the tint but can also arise after hours or even a day.

To help prevent or limit allergic reactions, the majority of hair color Hair color is the pigmentation of hair follicles due to two types of melanin, eumelanin and pheomelanin. Generally, if more melanin is present, the color of the hair is darker; if less melanin is present, the hair is lighter. Levels of melanin can vary over time causing a person's hair color to change, and it is possible to have hair follicles of products recommend that the client conduct a patch test before using the product. This involves mixing a small quantity of tint preparation and applying it directly to the skin for a period of 24 hours. If irritation develops, manufacturers recommend that the client not use the product. A skin patch test is advised before the use of every coloring process, since allergies can develop even after years of use with no reaction.

Adverse reactions can result from both at-home and salon hair coloring products, as similar chemicals are used in both settings.

In some cases, allergic reactions are caused by the aniline derivative and/or p-Phenylenediamine p-Phenylenediamine is an organic compound with the formula C6H4(NH2)2. This derivative of aniline, aromatic amine, is a colourless solid when pure but typically samples are partially oxidized and appear yellowish. It mainly used as a component of engineering polymers and composites. Its use is controversial because of it high toxicity. may cause (PPD) found in permanent hair color.

Hair breakage

Hair that has been damaged by excessive exposure to chemicals is considered 'over-processed'. This results in dry, rough and fragile hair. In extreme cases, the hair can be so damaged that it breaks off entirely. This is especially true for Afro-textured hair, especially if used in combination with relaxers. Treatments are available but the only real solution is to stop the use of chemicals until the hair recovers.

It is advised that colored hair be deep conditioned regularly, and washed and conditioned with gentle products specifically designed for color-treated hair. This will help keep the hair intact, as well as ensuring that the color doesn't fade as quickly.

Skin discoloration

Skin and fingernails are made of the same type of keratinized protein as hair. That means that drips, slips and extra hair tint around the hairline can result in patches of discolored skin. This is more common with darker hair colors and persons with dry absorbent skin.

This discoloration will disappear as the skin naturally renews itself and the top layer of skin is removed (typically takes a few days or at most a week). A good way to prevent dye discoloration is to put a thin layer of Vaseline or any oil-based preparation around the hairline. It is recommended that latex gloves be worn to protect the hands.

Unpredictable color results

Several factors influence the final color of the hair following the coloring process.

• For semi-permanent and demi-permanent color, the final color is always a blend of the natural color of the strand and the dye color.

• Bleached blond hair will not absorb certain colors (for instance, dying blond hair brunette can result in bright red or green hair).

• Previous use of henna and "color restorers" can react unpredictably with hair dyes.

• Previous use of some volumizing shampoos, which deposit a layer of plastic on the hair can block the action of the dye.

• Presence of minerals, salts, chlorine or other environmental contaminants usually from residential water supplies or sea water

• Certain prescription drugs can alter hair chemistry

• Dying dark hair blond requires knowledge of color theory. Once the hair is bleached, it will have a yellow or coppery shade. A violet-based color must be used to cancel out yellow tones, and a blue-based shade will cancel out coppery orange.

Professional hair colorists have a number of products which can correct or reduce the impact of unintended hair coloring outcomes.

Health concerns

There is ongoing debate regarding more serious health consequences that may result from use of hair coloring.

Recent publications regarding the dangers of hair tints include:

• An FDA study that found lead acetate (the active ingredient in gradual darkening products such as Grecian formula) to be potentially toxic.^[2][3]
• Articles that link the development of some forms of cancer Cancer /ˈkænsər/ (medical term: malignant neoplasm) is a class of diseases in which a group of cells display uncontrolled growth (division beyond the normal limits), invasion (intrusion on and destruction of adjacent tissues), and sometimes metastasis (spread to other locations in the body via lymph or blood). These three malignant properties (including leukemia Leukemia or leukaemia (Standard English; Greek leukos λευκός, "white"; aima αίμα, "blood") is a cancer of the blood or bone marrow characterized by an abnormal increase of blood cells, usually leukocytes (white blood cells). Leukemia is a broad term covering a spectrum of diseases. In turn, it is part of the even, non-Hodgkin's lymphoma, bladder cancer, blood cancer, and multiple myeloma) with use of hair color.^[4][5][6] More specifically, prolonged use of permanent dark hair dyes can actually double a person's risk of getting various types of blood cancer.^[7]

• Recently a known human carcinogen, 4-Aminobiphenyl or 4-ABP, was found in some hair dyes that you can get off the shelf.^[8]

Alternatives to industrial tints

Ancient civilizations dyed their hair using plants. Some of the most well known are henna Henna or Hina is a flowering plant used since antiquity to dye skin, hair, fingernails, leather and wool. The name is also used for dye preparations derived from the plant, and for the art of temporary tattooing based on those dyes. Additionally, the name is misused for other skin and hair dyes, such as black henna or neutral henna, which do not, indigo, Cassia obovata, senna, turmeric Turmeric is a rhizomatous herbaceous perennial plant of the ginger family, Zingiberaceae. It is native to tropical South Asia and needs temperatures between 20 °C and 30 °C, and a considerable amount of annual rainfall to thrive. Plants are gathered annually for their rhizomes, and re-seeded from some of those rhizomes in the following season and amla The Indian gooseberry is a deciduous tree of the Euphorbiaceae family. It is known for its edible fruit of the same name. Others include katam, black walnut hulls, red ochre Ochre or Ocher is term for both a golden-yellow or light yellow brown color and for a form of earth pigment which produces the color. The pigment can also be used to create a reddish tint known as Red ochre. The more rarely used terms Purple ochre and Brown ochre also exist for variant hues. Because of these other hues, the color Ochre is and leeks The leek, Allium ampeloprasum var. porrum , also sometimes known as Allium porrum, is a vegetable which belongs, along with the onion and garlic, to the Alliaceae family. Two related vegetables, the elephant garlic and kurrat, are also variant subspecies of Allium ampeloprasum, although different in their uses as food.^[9]

Presently, there are companies that do sell alternate-based dyes for people that are sensitive to PPD p-Phenylenediamine is an organic compound with the formula C6H4(NH2)2. This derivative of aniline, aromatic amine, is a colourless solid when pure but typically samples are partially oxidized and appear yellowish. It mainly used as a component of engineering polymers and composites. Its use is controversial because of it high toxicity. may cause, a chemical found in most hair colors.

There are also said to be safer products that avoid the side-effects of most industrial tints. The safer alternatives generally contain fewer potentially toxic compounds or are plant based, and do also have temporary, semi-permanent and permanent options with the same persistence as the industrial versions - however in practice, these products often do not last as long as industrial tints.^[10] Users should be cautioned that allergic reactions are possible even from "natural" vegetable dyes.

Henna Henna or Hina is a flowering plant used since antiquity to dye skin, hair, fingernails, leather and wool. The name is also used for dye preparations derived from the plant, and for the art of temporary tattooing based on those dyes. Additionally, the name is misused for other skin and hair dyes, such as black henna or neutral henna, which do not is a plant used for ayurvedic hair coloring. The red dye is commonly used as a deposit-only hair color whose active component, lawsone, binds to keratin Keratin refers to a family of fibrous structural proteins. Keratin is the key structural material making up the outer layer of human skin. It is also the key structural component of hair and nails. Keratin monomers assemble into bundles to form intermediate filaments, which are tough and insoluble and form strong unmineralized tissues found in and is therefore semi-permanent (i.e., it will wash out with time, generally a couple of months)^[11] to permanent, depending on a person's hair type. Most will achieve a permanent color after the second dye. While "natural" henna is generally a deep red-color, variations exist. These variations, however, usually contain ingredients from other plants and even synthetic dyes.

Using a plant-based color such as henna, can cause problems later when trying to do a perm A permanent wave, commonly called a perm, is the chemical and/or thermal treatment of hair to produce waves, curls or straight hair. The use of the word 'permanent' is justified insofar as when the wave is permed, it remains so; however, as the hair grows, the new hair that grows has not been waved, while cutting the hair from the end removes that or permanent hair color. Pure imported body art quality henna is claimed not to cause such problems, but most store-bought henna is mixed with additives which can lead to unpredictable results. Although it may not be visible on darker hair, the staining from henna will remain for several months and this may only be realized when dying is attempted and an unpleasant, permanent orange color results.

See also

• Human physical appearance Variations in the physical appearance of humans, known as human looks, are believed by anthropologists to be an important factor in the development of personality and social relations, in particular, physical attractiveness. There is a relatively low sexual dimorphism between human males and females in comparison with other mammals. However,
• Hairstyle A hairstyle, hairdo, or haircut refers to the styling of head hair. The fashioning of hair can be considered an aspect of personal grooming, fashion, and cosmetics, although practical considerations also influence some hairstyles. Hairstyles are also influenced by various subcultures
• Hair highlighting
• Punk fashion Punk fashion is the clothing, hairstyles, cosmetics, jewelry, and body modifications of the punk subculture. Punk fashion varies widely, ranging from Vivienne Westwood designs to styles modeled on bands like The Exploited. The distinct social dress of other subcultures and art movements, including glam rock, skinheads, rude boys, greasers, and
• Chapatsu

References

1. ^ Wecker, Johann Jacob; R. Read (1661). Eighteen books of the secrets of art & nature. pp. 83. http://books.google.com/books?id=nDYVAAAAQAAJ.
2. ^ FDA info concerning lead acetate
3. ^ Government reference for Grecian formula's ingredients
4. ^ "Does hair dye cause cancer?". Cancer Research UK. 20 July 2006. http://www.cancerhelp.org.uk/help/default.asp?page=4124. Retrieved 2007-07-29.
5. ^ DeNoon, Daniel J. (January 26, 2004). "Hair Dye Linked to Blood Cancer: Long-Term Use of Dark, Permanent Dye May Raise Lymphoma Risk". Web MD. http://www.webmd.com/skin-problems-and-treatments/news/20040126/hair-dye-linked-to-blood-cancer. Retrieved 2007-07-29.
6. ^ Begoun, Paula. "Does Hair Dye Cause Cancer?". Paula's Choice. http://www.cosmeticscop.com/makeup-tips-tricks-hair-dye-cancer-risks.aspx?filter=itemtype%3acontent. Retrieved 2010-01-19.
7. ^ Talks about health hazards of dying hair
8. ^ http://www.webmd.com/skin-problems-and-treatments/news/20040126/hair-dye-linked-to-blood-cancer?page=2
9. ^ The History of Hair Dye
10. ^ Berger, Laurie (September 1998). "Hair color to dye for: the good, the bad and the ugly on natural cover-ups - natural hair dyes". Vegetarian Times. http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0820/is_n253/ai_21034492.
11. ^ Mookychick Style: Henna and Removing Henna

External links

• How Stuff Works "How Hair Coloring Works"
• How To Go Brunette - marie claire magazine Australia
• How To Go Blonde - marie claire magazine Australia
• Hair Colour Decoder - marie claire magazine Australia
• Hair Colour How To - marie claire magazine Australia
• How to Go From Black Hair to Bright Blonde - wikiHow

Categories: Hairdressing | Hair color | Body modification

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